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The article does describe the broken clutch lever pin problems, & you will find the the exact part numbers & information in my own for your Airhead. Duane's article does not cover a LOT of what I do & certainly does not cover all my testing, nor how to go about any ideas of overhauling a transmission, shimming it, nor ANYthing about the 17.5 gear angle change, etc. Airhead shifts similarly except that the shift levers are moved by a flat plate cam. Some information not covered in my own transmission article, below, that you are reading. I have some nitpicking with some of the information, mostly not worth relating here. #2: This shows how a typical transmission, in this case a drum type cam similar to a Classic K bike, might shift. #4: Some information how a transmission works; /2 transmissions, testing, details. Link #1: From the BMW Factory School on the 5 speed gearbox and both early and late clutches.
My present recommendation is that, if you want to, you may use a synthetic gear oil of good quality.
I have no objection to it being used in the driveshaft (of those models using oil there).
In fairness, I will also note here that one experienced transmission rebuilder, Tom Cutter, my words here, believes synthetic gear oil in your Airhead is not good, leading to unspecified WEAR.
I recommend that you NOT use any additive if your transmission is filled with synthetic oil.
One such additive is made by Dow Corning and sold, $$$$, by bearing sales companies.
If you change from a dino to a synthetic, & get some weeping or leaks, change to another type of synthetic, or go back to a dino.